Spring Tire Swap Checklist
Updated 2026-07-28
The garage still smells like old snow when it's time to swap winter tires for the summer or all-season set, and it's tempting to bolt the same wheels back on and call the job done. A tire that sat in a corner of the garage or a shed for months needs a look before it goes back under a moving car. A few minutes of checking now catches problems while they're still cheap to fix — a slow leak, a cracked sidewall, or a wheel that's fallen out of balance.
Start with the tires coming off storage
- Tread depth: check depth at several points across the width of each tire, not only the center, using a tread depth gauge or the built-in wear bars as a reference. Tread worn unevenly side to side usually points to a pressure or alignment problem from before winter, not a random defect in the tire itself.
- Tread wear indicators: the raised bars molded into the bottom of the tread grooves, spaced around the tire. If the tread sits level with a bar in more than one location, plan to replace that tire instead of remounting it for another season of driving.
- Sidewalls: look for cracks, bulges, or bubbles anywhere on the sidewall, not only near the tread, and run a hand around the full circumference while you're at it. Any of these means the tire shouldn't go back on the car until a shop has looked at it, regardless of how much tread is left.
- Age: find the DOT date code on the sidewall, a four-digit number giving the week and year the tire was made, usually near the rim edge. Rubber hardens and loses grip with age even on a tire that's seen little driving, so a tire that looks new by tread alone can still be past its useful life.
- Valve stems and caps: inexpensive to replace and easy to overlook during a swap, especially on wheels that have been off the car for months. Ask the shop to swap any stem that looks cracked or dry, and replace caps that went missing in the garage over winter.
- Wheels and rims: if the seasonal set is mounted on its own wheels, check each rim for corrosion, bends, or curb damage while the tire is off and the rim is easy to see clearly. A bent rim can cause a vibration that feels like a tire problem even when the tire itself is fine.
If a tire fails more than one of these checks, treat that as a reason to stop rather than a note for later. Dry rot, a bulge, or a tire well past its date code isn't something worth gambling on for a full season of driving, especially once the weather warms up and highway trips get longer. A shop can usually tell in a few minutes whether a borderline tire is safe to remount, and it's a cheaper conversation to have in spring than after a failure on the road in July.
Pressure, balance, and alignment after months in storage
Every tire loses air gradually while it sits through winter, so don't trust the pressure reading from when the tires came off in the fall. Check each tire cold, before the car has been driven that day, and set it to the number on the driver's doorjamb sticker rather than the higher maximum figure printed on the tire's own sidewall. If a wheel has been sitting for months, ask the shop to rebalance it before it goes back on the car — weights can shift or fall off in storage, and an unbalanced wheel usually shows up as a vibration in the steering wheel that gets worse around highway speed. Winter potholes and curb strikes are also a common cause of alignment drift, so if the car pulls to one side on a flat road, the steering wheel isn't centered when driving straight, or the freshly mounted tires start wearing unevenly within a few weeks, get the alignment checked. Catching it early protects a set of tires that's barely been driven from wearing down before its time.
Once the set is on and torqued down, log it rather than trusting memory for next fall. CarCare's tire section tracks summer, winter, and all-season swaps along with rotation history for each car, so the record shows which set is mounted, when it went on, and when it was last rotated. That history also makes it easier to judge when a set is getting close to the end of its life, since the swap dates and inspection notes from each season are sitting in one place instead of scattered across memory and a few paper receipts in the glovebox. It's a small habit that pays off most when someone else drives the car or a mechanic needs the full picture.
Frequently asked questions
How do I know if my tires are too old to use, even if the tread looks fine?
Check the DOT date code on the sidewall — it's a four-digit number ending in the week and year the tire was made. Rubber compounds harden and lose grip over years regardless of how much driving the tire has seen, so a low-mileage tire from several years back can still be past its useful life. If you're unsure how to read the code or the tire looks questionable, ask a tire shop to check it during the swap.
Should I get an alignment done every time I swap tires?
Not necessarily. An alignment is worth booking if you notice symptoms like pulling to one side, uneven wear, or an off-center steering wheel, or if the car hit a significant pothole or curb over winter. A swap is a convenient moment to have a shop glance at it since the tires are already off, but it isn't a required step every season on its own.
Can I swap tires myself, or should I use a shop?
Plenty of people swap their own seasonal tires with a jack and a torque wrench, and it's a reasonable job for someone comfortable working on their car. The steps that are harder to judge at home are balancing and spotting problems like a slow leak or sidewall damage, so if anything looks off during your own check, that's the moment to bring it to a shop.
What's the difference between rotating tires and swapping seasonal sets?
Rotating moves the same set of tires to different positions on the car, often front to back, to even out wear. Swapping seasonal sets replaces one full set of tires with a different set built for the season, like summer or all-season tires replacing winter tires. Both matter for even wear over the life of a tire, and CarCare's tire tracking keeps a history of each one separately.
How much air pressure do tires lose from sitting all winter?
Pressure drops gradually over time even with no driving, and temperature swings during storage add to that, so it's common for tires to be noticeably low by spring regardless of what they were set to in the fall. Rather than guess, check each tire's pressure cold and set it to the number on the doorjamb sticker, not the number printed on the tire's sidewall, which lists a maximum rather than a recommended setting.
CarCare does not provide legal, insurance, traffic, or mechanical advice. Always confirm deadlines and requirements with your owner's manual, a qualified mechanic, or your local authority.
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